After leaving the chateau we started the next part of our trip, driving north to Agen and turning east. The farmland changed substantially almost as soon as we left, becoming very green. As we drove east we noticed it getting rockier, especially as we drove into the very pretty main street of Cahors.

After having lunch in a Cahors cafe we took some pictures of the Pont de Valences and decided to head to Rocamadour. The ground changed very suddenly, and we were climbing solid rock. We soon left the highway, winding our way down ever-shrinking roads, and twisting here and there, high and low, like a writhing snake all over the French countryside. Finally we reached Rocamadour and it was a breathtaking sight. The town is carved into the side of a mountain high above a valley, and we had to pull over (on some very dodgy roads) for pictures.

We probably should have left after that but we went up into the city. It was about 8 different kinds of tacky. Very tourist trap. Dad and I climbed the stairs to the top (wrong day to wear a hoodie!) for some pictures before we fled the schamltz. We now turned northwest toward Sarlat.

It took us about an hour to hit the outskirts of Sarlat, having crossed and driven along the Dordogne river, just as it began to rain. Lack of adequate maps, confusing streets and the pouring rain made it very difficult to find our hotel, so we spent quite a bit of time driving around the winding city streets. Finally we found it and checked in, then had another hard time finding the parking garage. It’s a beautiful little town, but it’s been wet and confusing so far!

The front desk suggested a hotel; we asked for casual and quick, but where he sent us was fancy and expensive. After waiting 45 minutes to have our order taken and realizing we didn’t want to stay anyway, we buggered off. Sometimes you just have to call it. Anyway, plan B — a pizzeria — ended up hitting the spot. I know, having pizza in France seems sacreligious, but sometimes after a long day you just need some comfort food. A quick stroll to see the cathedral and we went home for the night. Sweet, sweet bed.

[tags]france, agen, cahord, rocamadour, sarlat[/tags]

I’m sad. We’re just about to leave the chateau, and we’ve come to think of the place as our French home. We’ve fallen in love with the rooms (even the secret kind*), the courtyard, the pool, the countryside, the owners and staff, and all the new family and friends. This gathering really was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and as great as the remainder of the trip will be, it’s a little depressing to think that this chapter is coming to a close.

However, tomorrow’s a new adventure, and we have pictures, blog postings and visions burned into our minds (one of the better ones involves “99 Problems” by Jay-Z) to help us remember.

* Two bedrooms have two trapdoors each leading to the cave (or basement) where people have been hidden over the years. Our guesses are priests, French resistance and/or particularly delicious wine.

[tags]france, lartigolle[/tags]

OK…I have a lot to cover and I’m still a teensy bit shaky. Didn’t get enough sleep and I laid in bed, on and off, until about 2:30.

Highlights from last night are almost too many to mention. The ceremony was wonderful, the bride looked lovely, the dinner was fabulous, my brother sang a Jimi Hendrix song with the band, I got to play the drums for a few minutes, there were cigars, the Scotsman’s s.o. rocked the dance floor, there were moving speeches and we partied long, long into the night. All in all a tremendous occasion.

By the way, any rumours that my brother is as gay as a picnic basket are unfounded. Apparently.

[tags]france, lartigolle[/tags]

Can’t blog. Taking advil.

Yesterday, after my swim, I learned how to play boules, aka petanque, aka bocce. I’m not sure flicking heavy steel balls across the yard is the best thing to do when one’s broken wrist is healing.

The whole cast and crew had dinner last night at a nearby restaurant. It’s the only place to eat in the tiny village, but it’s an awfully good one. Most had either sea bass or lamb; I had an omelette made with local forest mushrooms. I don’t even *like* mushrooms but the dish was still good. It was also cool to see the chef whipping up the feast over a wood fire. All that, plus lots of wine, a dessert crepe and fun conversations at multiple tables made it a great evening. We even saw a deer on the drive home.

Upon our return home we had a few more drinks and chatted, with the last few of us calling it quits around 1AM. One of these days I’ll get to bed before midnight.

Today we got up and checked out the market in Auch. I was more interested in the cathedral and old town than the market. We did some poking around and ate some lunch, and got a little lost on the way home. We arrived back at the chateau to find the preparations underway (we just missed the pig being gutted, thankfully) and decided to chill in our room for a while. Nellie watched Freaks and Geeks; I listened to Vampire Weekend, The National and Interpol.

[tags]france, lartigolle, auch[/tags]

Another relaxing day. Once again the hordes left for parts unknown so Nellie, my dad and I had the place to ourselves. We had originally planned to drive into the Pyrenees this morning but Nellie took sick so we took it easy. I don’t know what it is about her and weddings…

I had a dip in the pool this afternoon, hung out in the shade and played with the kittens. I do NOT hate it here.

Last night the ladies got up to some pre-wedding nonsense while the men hid in the other room, played some snooker, drank some whisky and had some laughs. We were the last to bed, around 1:45.

[tags]france, lartigolle, pyrenees[/tags]

I forgot to talk about last night’s meal. The owners started off with something foie gras that I couldn’t (and wouldn’t) eat before bringing out these unbelievable goat cheese and honey hors d’oeuvres…manoman. I ate three or four. Couldn’t stop myself.

We moved into the grand salon for the meal, and first up was this huge, delicious, amazing pile of prawns. I couldve left the table then and been happy with the food. There was also lots of wine flowing, as well as conversation…two families gathered around one huge table like that was quite an experience.

Next up was the main; most people had duck while Nellie and I had wolf fish (?), which was very tasty with some pepper on top. Dessert was…I can’t remember now. Not peach, not orange…eesh. Anyway, it was delightful. We brought more wine (and our hosts) to the table and chatted on into the night. Some of the transatlantic travelers began to fall off so we moved ourselves into the kitchen and stayed there ’til nearly 1AM.

Today’s been a lazy one. Nellie and I slept past 9, getting up for some pastries and a walk to the top of the hill (where you can see the Pyrenees in the distance). This place is a mosaic of rolling hills, farms, thickets, animals and chateaus, and it’s a very calming place.

Since this is the first real downtime I’ve had in months I’m enjoying the peace and quiet. Nellie and I are the only guests left here right now; everyone else is off in town or exploring the countryside. Me, I’m sitting in the courtyard, in clean air and perfect temperatures, nibbling a pain au chocolate, occasionally scratching O’Malley (the resident cat) while I write this up. I may play some ping-pong later, or I may sit by the pool. I may read in the petit salon or have a nap in my room. Or I may do absolutely nothing, and enjoy the hell out of it.

[tags]france, lartigolle, pyrenees[/tags]

After some twists, turns and frustrated 180s we arrived at the chateau. Other family members arrived soon after, so much of the gang is now here.

What a place. What an unreal location and fabulous owners and spectacular setting and blah diddy blah blah blah. I couldn’t possibly describe the brilliance of it all, but it’s been brillliant on and off since the 11th century or so, so that should tell you something. Tonight we stood outside and stared at the clear stars before retiring to our room with titanic beams and vaulted ceilings. How awesome is that?

OK, it’s 1:05. Must sleep. Bon nuit!

[tags]france, lartigolle[/tags]

We moved at a leisurely pace this morning, packing and enjoying pastries in our room before our cab arrived. We arrived at Orly in plenty of time, checked in and had a bite to eat at the little terminal.

After a very quick, uneventful and sparsely populated flight we arrived in Toulouse, collected our bags and sat down to wait for my parents, whose flight from Paris was delayed a few minutes.

[tags]france, toulouse[/tags]

Well, that was a fine Parisien(ish) meal. We were all set to try a trattoria around the corner but the hotel suggested a place called Willi’s Wine Bar. It sounded weird, but a) it obviously had great wine; b) it was 100% non-smoking; c) it was only 2 minutes away; and d) it apparently had pretty good food. Done and done.

We had a look at the menu and could figure out that there was enough fish/veg to fill a meal, so in we went. After a few sad attempts at explaining our vegetarian plight en francais the waiter told us he was better with English (as was most of the staff) and we placed our order. Nellie had some octopus w/ pasta to start; I had some cold crab + apricot cake. OK, but not great; our glasses of wine were tasty though. Next up; sea bass for both of us. Normally we wouldn’t have it (being endangered and all) but we were short on choice. It was pretty good, especially with the lemon + ginger flavour. At this point we were into a bottle of dry Sancerre.

The piece de resistance (ha! that’s an actual phrase here!) was dessert: I had the terrine de chocolate and Nellie had the cheese plate…and I do mean plate. It was huge! There were four huge hunks of cheese on the plate, and she barely finished half. CB would have lost her mind.

They had some great art on the walls too. I think we’ll order one when we get home…which is over a week from now! Woot!!

[tags]paris, willi’s wine bar[/tags]