We’ve just gotten home from two weeks on the east coast. We wanted to be out of the/any city for a while, so we booked an AirBnB in Grande-Digue NB, about 30 minutes from downtown Moncton, so I could continue to work.
The place was right on the water, lovely and private without being isolated. We enjoyed the sunshine and salt air and gorgeous view across Shediac Bay. We saw plenty of birds (herons, ducks, even a bald eagle) and a deer wandered through our yard the first night. We relaxed on the back deck and on the lawn and on the couch and on the beach. We had lobster rolls and donairs (and donair pizza) and fresh produce from Les Digues and fried clams from local staple Chez Leo. We even squeezed in a quick trip to the farm to see my family, and one day Lindsay’s mom dropped by.
I did end up being in Moncton for work most days (and tried a few new places, like Mama’s Charcoal BBQ, the Moncton instance of The Old Triangle, and the Dolma rooftop bar) but most days I was pretty anxious to get home to this peaceful view:
Just back from another trip out east. Couple days in Moncton (no new places visited) and a couple days on the farm with my dad while my mom, sister-in-law, and brother #2 were overseas. Flew back Thursday (and fell kind of ill on the flight, which wasn’t great, but it’s also not the first time I’ve experienced that…I’m starting to think it’s the white wine they serve) and spent Friday working & recovering.
Right before I left for Moncton we had binged The Jinx. Lindsay had seen it; I somehow had not (though I knew what happened in the final episode). Still, learning the whole story was…pretty shocking. So of course when I got back we starting catching up on the new season, and suddenly I’m back to impatiently waiting for Sunday night TV.
Just got back from another trip to Moncton. Highlights:
Stayed at a different hotel this time, the boutique hotel above the St. James’ Gate pub. It was just okay. Showing it’s age a bit for sure. And the cleaners in the room next to mine had no problem blasting super-loud music at 7am through the thin walls. Luckily I was already up, but if you were looking to sleep in it might not be the place for you. No amenities or anything either…just a room.
I managed to coordinate a fly-by hug with my mom on her way to a show at the Capitol Theatre, which was a nice little bonus for us both.
Coupla hammered guys outside the St. James’ Gate got pretty aggro with me as I tried to go to my room, making fun of me because — as far as I could tell — I was wearing a collared shirt. Ah, the Maritimes.
Wine tradition: picked up a pretty nice bottle of Oregon Pinot and drank it over the course of the week.
Months ago I thought: you know, a full eclipse probably doesn’t happen that often, you should just book a room in Niagara on the Lake and figure out later how to build a trip around it. And I did. And then the closer it got to the actual date of the eclipse, and the crazier things got (pre-emptive state of emergency, anyone?) the smarter I felt. We had a room and a dinner reservation at Treadwell. The rest would look after itself.
SUNDAY
We drove down to NotL, and the traffic was better than we expected. We checked into our usual haunt (124 on Queen), had a drink in their new (well, new to us, anyway) NOTL bar, and walked across the street to the Two Sisters satellite restaurant 11th Post On Queen for lunch. This place was also new to us, and a welcome addition to the high street even if it is a tied house. I had the fried chicken sandwich; Lindsay had the beef dip. We left with a couple of bottles of Two Sisters Cab Franc.
We opted against getting back in the car and instead walked down the street to Queen’s Royal Park, where the Niagara River meets Lake Ontario, and enjoyed the sunshine & warm weather. It’s been a while on both fronts.
As I mentioned, we had dinner booked at Treadwell, a must-visit for us any time we’re in town. It was good, but this one of the first times it hasn’t really bowled us over. Things really dragged at the end of the evening (there were some tables who really monopolized our server), but more than that it was roasting hot inside the restaurant. We were sat right next to the thermostat, and I saw it it top 77°F — that’s 25°C — a few times. Anyway, here’s what we ate:
Good, to be certain. Good wine pairings too, for the most part — one of the two sommeliers was lovely, and for three of the four courses she poured us the standard 3 ounces. For our mains, the other sommelier poured me maybe 2 ounces, and Lindsay maybe 1. To the point where she had to order a full glass of wine just to have enough to pair with her pasta. I suppose we should have said something; we were both just kind of stunned that this happened at a restaurant this sharp.
MONDAY
Eclipse day! We decided not to bother visiting wineries; even those open on Mondays were largely closed for private eclipse parties. Instead we slept in, faffed about, and went for a walk. Ultimately we decided to give Treadwell a re-try for lunch (the idea of splitting that lobster club on duck fat-fried sourdough w/ double-smoked bacon and whipped goat’s cheese was just too enticing) which slightly backfired on us when the server brought our first course to the wrong table. The table next to us had ordered exactly the same starters as us, but like 15 minutes later…so by the time they figured it out and gave us the other table’s food, the kitchen had to put a hold on our sandwich (which was nearly ready). Anyway, what should have been a tight 75-minute lunch ended up being almost two hours, and we were scrambling to get to our eclipse venue before everything began. Sigh.
We ended up meeting up with our friend Laura’s at her parents’ house, which meant we got to meet more of her family (and her cat!) and enjoy the very cloudy view of the celestial event from a spacious backyard. Unlike most other parts of the country which got to witness the eclipse, Niagara was very cloudy. We did get quick peaks of the moon transiting across the sun, and even a few moments of the totality itself, before clouds would swoop back in. But just the experience of the day getting dark as night for 4 minutes was pretty remarkable. Sure, given the weather it didn’t live up to the hype, but honestly…how often do you get to experience being in the path of totality in your lifetime? It was cool. It just was.
And of course, 20 minutes after the eclipse ended, the clouds moved off and the sun came out. So at least we had that. We stopped at the Pie Plate for coffee and rhubarb tarts, then dropped the car back at the hotel. We were a bit at a loss for where to eat dinner, so we just ate at the new NOTL restaurant in our hotel. Sadly, it continued our streak of problematic meals.
We couldn’t process what the decor was going for. Furnished like a club, lit like an early bird buffet.
I don’t know if we pissed off our server or if she was just having an off night, but we were NOT in sync. At all. Timing? Off. Vibe? Off. No idea, what caused it, but it became a struggle.
I started with the Caesar salad, which was okay. Lindsay started with the local greens w/ honey whipped ricotta, lemon, olive oil, and sesame flatbread, which was ENORMOUS. I cannot overstate how big this salad was. This would have been a full meal for two people. It certainly was not a starter size. Both it and my salad were pretty over-oiled as well. Anyway, the salad was so huge our server must have thought Lindsay was still working on it, and it took forever for our mains to come out.
I got the burger, and it was good. Lindsay got the gnocchi…of which there were nine on the plate.
Again, it took forever for us to locate our server and get the bill, by which time we were almost asleep at the table. Rough.
Maybe it was growing pains — I don’t think it’s been open very long — but I’m not sure I’ll be booking dinner there again on our next visit.
TUESDAY
We’d originally planned to visit wineries on a leisurely drive home, but had to rush out of town to be back in Toronto by noon-ish. We grabbed chimney sandwiches from Budapest Bakeshop next door, which were goddamned delicious. The fancy places in town may have failed us, but the unassuming little Hungarian bakery might have saved the weekend.
I’ve just spent the week in Moncton, a more-or-less monthly occurrence now. This time it was rainy — very rainy. But at least it wasn’t snow or sleet.
I managed to try some new places this time, not just the same-old. On Monday I made a quick run to my favourite ANBL, and finally grabbed apps & beers at Pumphouse.
Wednesday I had drinks with more/other colleagues at Carrabba’s, and took a salad to go.
Thursday I decided to treat myself and had dinner, solo, at The Windjammer — a Moncton institution, but new to me. On the way I stopped in once again at the best ANBL, and found they were doing a little wine tasting. I just missed the Champagne, but sampled a fantastic Chablis and some excellent Beaujolais from Morgon. Good timing, I must say. Then, off to dinner.
The Windjammer wasn’t busy; I had a large booth to myself. The staff were just lovely, and matched my pace (i.e., I never waited for a course to show up, but never felt rushed) perfectly. My meal:
Amuse-bouche of beetroot and smoked salmon
Beet & goat cheese salad
Champagne
Granita (palate cleanser)
Bone-in ribeye w/ vegetables & Béarnaise sauce
Chianti
Chocolate truffles
Port
The steak was cooked perfectly, if a little over-salted. Still, I demolished it. They also very sweetly gave me a little jar of smoked salmon to take home, but I forgot it! Gutted.
Since it’s a long weekend I’ll leave Moncton this morning and drive to the farm for a couple of days. Just in time for the end of maple season!
POSTSCRIPT
It was a fun weekend at the farm. I tried to help out a bit with what turned out to be a very busy maple season, but I’m far too rusty. A bunch of family showed up Saturday and Sunday to partake of some maple, so that was an unexpected bonus. I also squeezed in a few hours up the road visiting one of my oldest friends, who I haven’t seen in…god, I don’t know how many years. But we got caught up, and fell right back into our love for music, and laughing about the days when we were kids. When I left he told me he loved me, and I told him the same. I’ve missed him, a lot. I’m excited to get more chances to see him.
I spent three days this week on a quick work trip to two western provinces: Manitoba (where I’ve visited just once) and Saskatchewan (where I’ve never been before). I met up with three colleagues at Pearson airport, and boarded the first of four flights to come in the next 48 hours. It was an Air Canada Express flight, meaning the planes didn’t have screens in the seats, so I got caught up on podcasts.
First on the agenda was Saskatoon. We landed (achievement unlocked: visit all ten provinces), buttoned our coats, and hurriedly walked to the rental car. We’d been dreading the western weather for days — and it was definitely still in the -20s — but luckily arrived just after the worst of it. (The day before it had felt like -48 with the windchill). We grabbed coffee from Museo, then later had fun with colleagues at Mar’s Mini-Golf and Earl’s.
The next day we had a 6:30 flight, so we were all up stupid-early. We were flying to Winnipeg, but because flights in the prairies are non-sensical, one of us had to fly to Calgary first, while the rest of us flew via Vancouver. If you understand Canadian geography at all, you’ll know how insane that is. Anyway, it gave me a chance to watch a movie (Dumb Money) and try out the first two episodes of a new-to-me TV show (For All Mankind). It also gave me a chance to marvel at the snowy BC landscape and see the sun glint off the Rockies, which is always a thrill. However, somewhere along the way I lost my Nexus card, which is going to be a pain in the butt.
We finally arrived in Winnipeg. Same sort of schedule as the Saskatoon: coffee (Thom Bargen, which was excellent), a fun group event (go-carting at Speedworld, which was very fun), and dinner at One Great City brewpub (which had me singing the Weakerthans song of the same name in my head the whole time).
I wish I’d had more (or maybe different?) time in both cities. I have friends in Winnipeg I’d have like to have seen — in hindsight I should have just stayed for the weekend. Then again, the middle of January probably isn’t the right time to spend extra days in cities like that. The crew I was with, who’ve done these trips many times, swear Saskatoon is beautiful in the summer, so maybe someday I’ll aim for that.
Or maybe it’s time to get to work on the territories?
The Muir really has started to feel like home when we’re in downtown Halifax. We stayed there for three nights this week, and really used the heck out of the whole Queen’s Marque complex, before relocating back to Bedford prior to our flight.
Our first day at The Muir, after I got a quiet breakfast downstairs in the morning, we went for a little walk around and then ate lunch at Salt + Ash. Cool spot; nice vibe. And great view, obviously.
cocktails
warm n’ fuzzy: jim beam bourbon, apple cinnamon syrup, lemon juice, cinnamon sugar rim, dehydrated apple slice (ed: this tasted like a goddamn apple pie)
crystal crescent #3: blue lobster vodka soda, benjamin bridge piquette, charred citrus, grenadine, soda, drunken cherry
north negroni: willing to learn gin, campari, cinzano rosso vermouth, rosemary syrup, lemon juice, egg white, rosemary sprig
starters
jalapeño cornbread w/ tequila lime butter
mains
fried chicken sandwich w/ hot + spicy, beach house dip, nasty sauce, fries
That night we met up with Tess + Aravind at Peacock, the wine bar we could practically see from our window. Some of us were not feeling great, so it probably wasn’t the best way to experience the place, but it was still pretty good.
Food
focaccia, rosemary, whipped white bean dip, preserved lemon
fresh burrata, red wine marinated figs, birch vinaigrette
2020 DeLoach, Heritage, Chardonnay – Russian River Valley
2021 Famille Fabre, Tour de Rieux, Cinsault – Languedoc (x2)
2021 Bodegas Alvarez de Toledo, Mencia – Bierzo
2014 Bachelder, La Petite Charmotte, Pinot Noir, Nuits-Saint-Georges
The next day we woke up, faffed about in the very comfy room, and eventually braved the cold & damp to have lunch at The Narrows. We’d heard how good it was and wanted to see for ourselves…and we weren’t disappointed. A true pub (not like so many of the pre-fab joints littering Halifax) in an old house, with cozy rooms and snug tables and relaxed vibes. We ate fish & chips and a fried fish sandwich and chopped salad and drank cask beer. There was even a nearby crib board so we squeezed in a game. What a cool spot.
After that we walked back across Gottingen; Lindsay had an appointment, so I Ubered back downtown and picked up a capp from the new-ish Java Blend downtown before walking back to the hotel and drying off / warming up.
Lindsay was also out for dinner, so I just wandered downstairs to Drift for dinner at the bar.
starter
Atlantic salmon tartare w/ charred lemon, dill, red onion, capers, brown bread crackers
Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis
main
roasted braised Nova Scotia lamb, split pea cassoulet, lamb bacon, mint, turnips
DeLoach Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
dessert
Famille Sichel Sauternes
After some room service breakfast this morning, we got ourselves together and checked out. Shortly after that Patrick met us and we went back to Drift for lunch. It was too gross out to explore much beyond that. Our food was good, but the service wasn’t great. It culminated in someone dropping an avocado-covered knife on Lindsay’s coat, and definitely noticing it, but just…not doing anything about it. Anyway.
The plan for tonight, after one last quick visit with Tess + Aravind, is to order some donair pizza and then try our best to sleep that off before our flight tomorrow.
And it was thus, that we ate our way through the Maritimes.
After a brief visit back in Toronto, we returned to Moncton for a few days (Highlights: sausage & ricotta pizza at Tide & Boar brewing, discovering a not-really-a-hangover cure at Carrabba’s. Lowlight: the 1:55am fire alarm in the hotel on our first night.) before driving to the farm for a couple days.
My mom was violently ill for most of our visit, but other than that it was nice to hang out with family, eat too much, play crib & Uno, and relax — even if it was for less than 48 hours.
We’ve now made the drive to Bedford, where we’ll stay for a couple of days before attempting to get a couple days to ourselves.
Once again I was back in Moncton this past week. Of note:
I sat next to someone I used to work with on the flight there, and another ex-colleague on the flight back. Last time I saw a former member of a past board of directors. I didn’t expect Moncton flights to be this kind of reunion hub.
Once I arrived I set out for my usual dinner plan: buy two bottles of wine at the Experience store, and get a baseball steak at The Keg. On the walk there I was a murmuration of Starlings just outside the hotel — I didn’t get video, but someone else did.
New places I tried this time: Cinta Ria (very tasty Malaysian), Taj Mahal (very good, even if I forgot to order rice), and the Tide & Boar brewpub, where I drank some very good beer and ate an extremely delicious (if far too big) Detroit-style donair pizza.
No family visits this time — it was a bit last-minute, and I was pretty heads-down whilst there — but there’ll be plenty more chances.
We took a noon flight to Newark on Tuesday. After a blown first attempt at taking an Uber, the second driver understood the assignment and we had a pretty easy ride to the Lower East Side. We stayed at the Ludlow Hotel. We got a cool railroad-type room, and used the small anteroom as storage so as to keep our king bed & lounge area nice and tidy. Very nice hotel, cool but chill vibes. We had a drink or three in the lobby lounge while we waited for our room to be readied.
We cleaned ourselves up post-flight, and went for a stroll through SoHo. It was the tail end of New York Fashion Week, and Lindsay figured we’d see some fashionable people out and about, so we picked a random restaurant: Pepolino. We did indeed see many beautiful people on our travels; unfortunately the restaurant wasn’t so glamorous, but whatever. The food was pretty decent, and we had a nice sidewalk venue. Here’s what we had:
fresh burrata with prosciutto di parma, roasted peppers, tomato and basil
endive salad with pears, walnuts & pecorino cheese in a lemon dressing
steamed mussels out of the shell in butter, garlic & parsley
bottle of falanghina
spinach & ricotta gnocchi (gnudi) in a butter sage sauce
farrotto del giorno (w/ sausage)
glasses of chianti & barbera d’asti
affogato
We weren’t up for the long walk home, so we called an Uber, and engaged in the time-honored tradition of getting honked at by New York traffic as you try to hurl yourself into the back of a car that’s stopping traffic. We got home and crashed; the city may never sleep, but we really needed to. Lindsay was up early Wednesday morning for her research appointment; I grabbed us coffees from Ludlow Coffee Supply next door while she hailed a cab. I plunked myself back in the lobby lounge to get caught up on a few things.
When she arrived back at the hotel for a late lunch, albeit stressed about how much she had to do, things took a sideways turn: I started getting waves of nausea and lightheadedness as we ate. It was coming and going with some frequency — enough to definitely weird me out. We went back to the room and I laid down on the bed, feeling mostly better…until I stood up rather quickly, and suddenly felt lightheaded again. This, coupled with the fact that I was still coughing after my illness that started at the end of August, was worrying. We decided I should do something that felt heretofore unimaginable: go to a doctor in the US. Or, rather, a nearby urgent care clinic.
The clinic was actually very nice and very fast. 15 minutes and 100USD later I definitely felt reassured that nothing was urgently wrong with me, but also that I should take it easy. The big concern was that we had tickets for a Pavement concert that night in Brooklyn. Being upright in a loud, sweaty environment a 30 minute drive from our bed seemed risky. Still, it was a big deal for Lindsay to see them live, so I was determined to go. I felt better, or at least I did until we tried eating dinner across the street at Taverna di Bacco. Then the nausea and lightheadedness and flop sweats and worry that I might pass out came back as we ate. It felt maybe like it happened when I drank wine, but that would certainly be a new (and unwelcome) development. We left after putting away a few starters, which was a shame, because the food was VERY tasty:
They kindly corked our bottle of Dolcetto so we could bring it back to our room. I felt better once I’d had a chance to lie back down, but not okay enough to go to the concert, which was devastating. I did some ill-advised googling, enough to see that these can be symptoms of an untreated sinus infection, so a trip to the CVS around the corner is in order.
I felt better when we woke up Thursday, and while Lindsay made her return visit to the archives I went downstairs to the lounge, testing my ability to not pass out. Ultimately I felt fine, and further tested my okay-ness by running a couple of nearby errands, and then eating a killer fried chicken sandwich from Sweet Chick. The afternoon passed without much concern, and eventually Lindsay got back from her appointment.
Once she did, we went straight up to the 20th floor rooftop terrace. It was totally empty, and we reveled in the perfect weather and striking panoramas of lower Manhattan. We drank a bottle of German Pinot, talked about everything and nothing, and watched the sun set over the Hudson.
We did need dinner, though: we hadn’t yet tried Dirty French, the hotel restaurant, so we decided to take our chances with a walk-in. Luckily we got a nice big booth, and set up for the night. And what a meal we had:
some kind of delicious soft flatbread
six oysters
glasses of Billecart-Salmon Champagne
Lamb carpaccio w/ eggplant, sheep’s yogurt, pita
Montreal short rib w/ horseradish, cole slaw, toast points, sauces
bottle of 2001 Catherine & Pierre Breton Les Perrieres Bourgueil Cabernet Franc
Everything was, frankly, fucked. The flatbread and whatever dip it came with were unreal. The lamb carpaccio was so delicious and spicy and melted in our mouths. The Montreal short rib was essentially a beautifully deconstructed Schwartz’s smoked meat sandwich. The wine was unreal, even after 20+ years in bottle (and such a steal compared to the other bottles on the list). The servers lost track of us at the end of the night, so we lingered longer than we wanted, but made it out alive. I had, thankfully, suffered no recurrence of the previous day’s symptoms.
We woke up, a little worse for wear, and set about preparing to leave the Ludlow. After a little walk around, we took advantage of their lounge one last time and ordered brunch as we began the transition to the next phase of our New York stay.
NEW YORK, PART THE SECOND
Days 4 through 6 of our time in Manhattan would be spent at the Greenwich Hotel, which confusingly enough is in Tribeca. Lindsay found it and loved the pictures; I’d never stayed in (or even been to) Tribeca before, so I was game. It was only after we’d checked in that we realized it’s partially owned by Robert De Niro. Our room — the whole hotel, really — was gorgeous. Like someone transplanted an Italian villa into downtown Manhattan.
Meanwhile, Lindsay seemed to have caught my cold, so while she rested I took a walk, down to the 9/11 memorial and back, stopping for a coffee at Kaffe Landskap on the way.
We napped in the cozy bed and gathered energy for our dinner downstairs at Locanda Verde. The restaurant was very busy, very loud, very crowded (I was bumped into by servers so many times I lost count) and also VERY good. Lindsay had limited energy, so we ordered right away, and they matched our pace, bringing stuff out super-quickly. We decided to chance it with a bottle of white to see us through all the courses; the sommelier concurred with my instinct to pick Fiano.
crostini w/ Sardinian sheep’s milk ricotta, sea salt & herbs
All of it was tremendous, frankly. And listen: I’ve had that orecchiette dish, or something just like it, dozens of times…but this might have been the best. Truly outstanding. We stepped outside for some fresh air, then retreated to our room and passed straight out.
On Saturday Lindsay woke up worried that she had COVID; I went out and bought rapid tests to set her mind at ease. Result: negative. That settled, we went downstairs for brunch in the courtyard. I had lemon ricotta pancakes w/ blueberries & meyer lemon curd; Lindsay had soft-scrambled farm egg crostino w/ leeks, mushrooms & speck. We shared a fruit plate and a fig danish and a few glasses of wine and cocktails.
After lunch we took a quick walk around the neighbourhood, where I took pictures of the Ghostbusters headquarters to send to my geeky brothers, and went back home to rest. Along the way we decided there was no way we’d be able to make it to Broadway tonight to see Hadestown so we gave our tickets to one of the hotel staff. I spent a little more time downstairs in the courtyard that afternoon, and just fetched us a nice bottle of wine and some food from a nearby takeout place for dinner while we watched comfort TV.
Sunday morning didn’t see much progress — we ordered room service breakfast and kept watching movies. I did hang out and read by the fire in the drawing room for a while though, with a cute dog napping nearby.
We finally summoned the energy to run out and do another errand. As we finished it up, we stood outside a generic New York pizza joint, and…I dunno, it was like the healing smells restored us. We got a couple of slices of Sicilian-style pepperoni and ate them on the sidewalk, and we felt like new again. OK, well, not quite, but we felt better. Better enough that we decided to sit down at Terroir for food (Maine oysters, two types of cheese, and calamari) and many glasses of wine. I can’t remember everything Lindsay ordered, but here’s what I had:
Palo Cortado, 20 Years, Solera Especial Dos Cortados, Williams & Humbert, NV, Jerez de la Frontera
Tokaji Aszu, 5 Puttonyos, Hétszölö, 2010
Our server (Paula?) was really lovely too. I feel like we’d have gone there every night we spent in Tribeca if Lindsay hadn’t been sick, but I’m so glad we got to go at least the once.
We ended the evening by walking over to the Hudson, enjoying the perfect weather.
Monday morning we were back to the old pre-transition routine: shower, coffee, re-pack. We luxuriated in our room since the weather had turned quite wet, checking out only when finally forced to. The staff suggested Bubby’s for lunch and it didn’t disappoint: sick ol’ Lindsay had tomato soup and grilled cheese; I had fried chicken and pancakes. We each had cocktails and biscuits and Cremant d’Alsace. We left very, very full. After one last cappuccino from Kaffe Landskap, we called an Uber to take us on the final leg of our trip, dodging the paparazzi there to photograph (I think) Peter Gabriel.
PHILADELPHIA, PART THE NEVERHAPPENED
BACK TO TORONTO
Given how sick Lindsay still was, we decided not to continue on to Philly. It broke our hearts, especially considering we had tickets to the Janelle Monae show at The Met that night. But Philly’s not going anywhere, and it doesn’t make sense to spend all that money on hotels and eating out when we can’t really go out or do much. So we spent the night at the Newark airport Marriott and ate a spectacularly mediocre dinner at the lobby bar.
On Tuesday, a week after we started this sickly journey, we woke up very tired (the guy in the room next to us decided to procure his sex worker at 4:30am) and got ready for our flight home. The shuttle to the terminal nearly made us both barf. The security line at the airport was incredibly short & smooth. Our flight left early and arrived early. Our uber ride home was fine. So there we were, a full 3.5 days earlier and 1 city fewer than planned, but thankfully cozy at home with a few unexpected quiet days to recover, and a weeks’ worth of excellent New York memories under our belt.