21 months ago Nellie and I took a bus up to a spot in Yoho called Lake O’Hara, where we then hiked up to another lake called Oesa. It was one of the most incredible places we’d ever been to, almost like a natural cathedral. There was no one else around, the water was perfect…it was perfect. We took a few pictures, but decided to take a video to capture most of the cirque. We then hiked back down and took a bus back to the disappointing world before we realized that the video didn’t work. The camera was new, we were still figuring it out…we were not very pleased with ourselves. We resolved to go back and try again.

Way back in November we booked two nights at Lake O’Hara Lodge so that we wouldn’t have to worry about bus times when deciding which hikes to do. We also booked a lakeside cabin so we’d have a nice view…and man, do we ever. I think we actually got the best view of any lakeside cabin…no trees in front of our porch and we stare straight out at the lake and up at the Oesa cirque. Amazing.

I’m happy to say that today we made it back to Oesa, though it was quite a different experience. First, there were a LOT of people on the trail…not like last time when we only encountered a few other hikers, and none on our entire journey up. We were also much less lucky with the weather this time; our first time up we got sunny and +15 instead of the -1 and flurries that was forecast. Today the forecast was rain and rain it did. We were just coming back down when it started, and we got well and truly soaked. Luckily the sun came out immediately after (during, to be completely accurate) and we were dry by the time we got back down. We also saw more animals this time: a marmot to go along with the chipmunks, mice and pikas (which we saw last time). We had a better lunch this time (the lodge packs a trail lunch for you…some yummy wraps and veggies and an apple and nuts and a cookie!) which we sat and ate at Oesa. Finally, the biggest difference: we couldn’t see the beautiful blue water of the lake; it’s still frozen over. On the plus side, the snow cap was much bigger; we could see little snow slides happening way above us.

The hike itself was spectacular, just like last time. The view of Lake O’Hara and the lodge, the towering mountains all around, the glaciers hanging off ledges, the lakes and streams and waterfalls…it’s about as rewarding a 4-hour hike as I can imagine. Of course, it wouldn’t take that long normally, but Nellie’s knees were really bothering her by the time we turned for home so it was slow going. I also found, when we got back to the cabin after the traditional post-hike carrot cake, that my neck is massively sunburned. Take those two things, add in the weather forecast (more rain) and the fact that the next trail we really want to do – Lake MacArthur – is still too snowy in parts, and I think the plan for tomorrow has been altered to just be a simple hike around Lake O’Hara itself, maybe some canoing, and possibly some sitting on the porch and reading while we stare at one of the most spectacular views ever. I don’t think that would suck so bad.

We had dinner at the lodge tonight…pretty damn good. Tasty salad, parsnip soup, a vegetable & goat cheese brochette (?) and a rhubarb mousse for dessert, along with some very tasty microbrews and a nice bottle of BC Riesling. It occurred to us that we were WAY under the average age – most people at the lodge seem to be retirees – but the entire staff is very young, and our wine steward (who’s from New Glasgow and went to SMU!) liked us. After dinner we decided to take another walk around O’Hara and get some shots with the different light. We got some really nice ones, including one of an arctic hare near the cabins. We came back and relaxed on the front porch with a book and a sip of wine…it’s now 10:13 and we just retired from the porch…it’s still light outside!

It kills me that I can’t blog or upload pictures right now. Y’all would die of jealousy if you could see this view. Night!

[tags]lake o’hara, lake oesa[/tags]

It was sunny and 27 yesterday when we arrived, so I guess we couldn’t expect the great weather to hold up. Today we got our first taste of Rockies rain. It was raining when we woke up, in fact, and we thought we might be stuck indoors for the whole day, but we got up and prepared just in case. We waited it out while we re-packed for Lake O’Hara and by 9:30 the rain had stopped. We finished prepping and jumped in the car.

We drove back up the same road as yesterday, to the Takkekaw Falls parking lot, which acts as the trailhead to the Iceline trail, which our hike books says is pretty awesome. It was also much longer and more difficult than any other hike we’ve done, so we were curious about how we’d handle it. We ended up doing A LOT of switchbacks up the side of the mountains along a narrow trail, which was quite often covered with snow or running water. We got above the tree line and scrambled along rocky slopes to get even higher. We were aiming for a highpoint about 6.4km up the trail (about 700 metres higher than the valley floor) and missed slightly, but actually got (we think) an even better vantage point just a little north.

It was well worth the trip up. Not just at the top, but the whole way…we were looking out at the Yoho valley, and could see the thunderous falls directly across from us. Actually, at the highpoint, we were higher than the falls’ “launch” so we had a great view of the whole thing. We jumped streams and looked down ravines. We were high enough that we could feel the cold air rolling off the Emerald glacier just above us. A chipmunk befriended us while we sat and ate our sandwiches, but I fear we soured the relationship when we wouldn’t give him food. It was a truly spectacular venue.

We turned to head back down. About fifteen minutes after we did, some drizzle started. Then a shower. Then heavier showers. Then hail. Then showers again, then hail again, then back to heavy showers. Around the time it turned to hail we’d made it back to the trees, but they didn’t help much…not much canopy up there. Despite the downhill switchbacks being the hardest sections on Nellie’s knees, she handled it like a trooper. It took us a while to descend those 700m, so by the time we got to the valley floor we were pretty wet…good thing we brought shells with us to keep off most of the rain. In the last few minutes of the walk, just as we passed the falls, the sun came out and welcomed us back to the car. We drove home, wiped.

Two hot baths and some chocolate & wine later, we drove over to the nearby town of Field for dinner at Truffle Pigs. We’d eaten there on our last visit, and it was fantastic. I wasn’t as blown away this time, though it was still VERY good, and not at all what you’d expect in a town as small as Field, which really just looks like a train depot that washed up on the banks of the river. Spicy spring rolls and pasta and salmon and apple pie with ice cream and beer (Propeller from Halifax!) hit the spot. We even stopped at Cherchez la Vache (across the street in Truffle Pigs’ former location) to buy some treats. It was they who put together the wonderful gift basket we found in our cabin yesterday.

And now we’re home again. I think we would both be happy to go to bed early, except it doesn’t get dark here until 10:30, so I shall finish packing and then read before passing out.

Next up: two days at Lake O’Hara! The bad news is we’re already tired; the good news is that today was a harder hike than the next two days of hiking combined. Here’s hoping the weather holds up!

[tags]takkekaw falls, yoho valley, iceline trail, truffle pigs, lake o’hara[/tags]

Wow. What a first day. The combination of getting up early, being 2 hours behind our body clocks and the extra-long days up here is making it hard to stay awake, so I’ll have to be brief.

Our flight was really good, actually. The lady who checked our bags was great, our flight was smooth and on time, and two movies kept me entertained until suddenly we were on the ground. There was also a member of the flight crew who liked my music snob t-shirt, so I gave her the website address and chatted a bit. She went on tour with the Rolling Stones a while back, so she had some good stories.

The rental car pickup and drive out of Calgary wasn’t problematic, it was just…slow. Lineups, traffic, etc. so we hit Canmore later than expected. Some groceries later we tried to find Crazyweed for lunch, but they’d moved and we couldn’t be arsed, so we skipped lunch altogether. We drove through construction and slow traffic past Banff, past Lake Louise and into Yoho, where we pulled into our lodge…and it hit me. I was on vacation. I didn’t feel like I was on vacation until I pulled in there, put it in park and cut the engine. Now…now the fun could start.

Check-in was quick and friendly, and we checked out our cabin…zowie. Beautiful! Bigger than Moraine Lake Lodge, nice big porch/veranda, couch, table…very nice indeed. A great added touch was the gift basket in our room…we were amazed at how well they treated their guests! Then Nellie read the card…it wasn’t from the staff, it was a gift basket from my mom and dad! “Happy Hiking” was the message, and it included wine and chocolate and candles and an art puzzle and a huge platter of cheese & crackers (which we found much later) so were blown away! Thanks mom & dad!! What a fantastic way to start the adventure.

We didn’t linger long in the cabin, just changed and jumped back in the car. The lodge is on the same road as Takkekaw Falls, which we missed last time, so we were on a mission. A few minutes later we were walking right up to it…I mean right up to it. It’s a huge waterfall, but I could climb nearly up to the bottom of the cascade. Got a little wet mind you; Nellie stayed farther back and shot.

Back to the cabin to get changed and have a glass of wine (and chocolate!) before dinner at the lodge. Dinner was amazing! Caramelized scallops and orange pickerel for Nellie; a ridiculously good goat cheese dish and peppery barley risotto for me. No dessert necessary; we had a ton of cheese at home. We did finish off our bottle of wine on the patio though, staring out at the the river and mountains, before retiring to our cabin for more wine and staring at nature.

A pretty amazing first day, all in all. We both feel like we’re in mountainous heaven, and can’t wait for tomorrow. Now…for sleep!!

[tags]calgary, canmore, cathedral mountain lodge, takkekaw falls[/tags]