Though it’s been an institution in Toronto’s French dining scene for years, I’d never managed to get to Le Select. Until last week.

I had the beet + goat cheese salad with chestnuts, and the smoked duck breast special with celeriac purée. I had a really excellent bottle of 2010 Château St-Georges from St-Émilion, and a glass of 2010 Château Suduirault 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes.

I’ll be honest: it made me miss France.