Halifax, to more or less wrap up the year

The Muir really has started to feel like home when we’re in downtown Halifax. We stayed there for three nights this week, and really used the heck out of the whole Queen’s Marque complex, before relocating back to Bedford prior to our flight.

Our first day at The Muir, after I got a quiet breakfast downstairs in the morning, we went for a little walk around and then ate lunch at Salt + Ash. Cool spot; nice vibe. And great view, obviously.

  • cocktails
    • warm n’ fuzzy: jim beam bourbon, apple cinnamon syrup, lemon juice, cinnamon sugar rim, dehydrated apple slice (ed: this tasted like a goddamn apple pie)
    • crystal crescent #3: blue lobster vodka soda, benjamin bridge piquette, charred citrus, grenadine, soda, drunken cherry
    • north negroni: willing to learn gin, campari, cinzano rosso vermouth, rosemary syrup, lemon juice, egg white, rosemary sprig
  • starters
    • jalapeño cornbread w/ tequila lime butter
  • mains
    • fried chicken sandwich w/ hot + spicy, beach house dip, nasty sauce, fries
    • lobster salad w/ avocado, potato, green beans, tomato, mixed greens, cider vinegar, boiled egg

That night we met up with Tess + Aravind at Peacock, the wine bar we could practically see from our window. Some of us were not feeling great, so it probably wasn’t the best way to experience the place, but it was still pretty good.

  • Food
    • focaccia, rosemary, whipped white bean dip, preserved lemon
    • fresh burrata, red wine marinated figs, birch vinaigrette
    • grilled beet salad, haskap, basil & dill vinaigrette
    • chicken fried halibut cheeks, sugar kelp, oyster aïoli
    • rigatoni, miso cacio e pepe
    • lamb sausage, spiced carrots, harissa, maple, onion relish
  • Wines
    • 2020 DeLoach, Heritage, Chardonnay – Russian River Valley
    • 2021 Famille Fabre, Tour de Rieux, Cinsault – Languedoc (x2)
    • 2021 Bodegas Alvarez de Toledo, Mencia – Bierzo
    • 2014 Bachelder, La Petite Charmotte, Pinot Noir, Nuits-Saint-Georges

The next day we woke up, faffed about in the very comfy room, and eventually braved the cold & damp to have lunch at The Narrows. We’d heard how good it was and wanted to see for ourselves…and we weren’t disappointed. A true pub (not like so many of the pre-fab joints littering Halifax) in an old house, with cozy rooms and snug tables and relaxed vibes. We ate fish & chips and a fried fish sandwich and chopped salad and drank cask beer. There was even a nearby crib board so we squeezed in a game. What a cool spot.

After that we walked back across Gottingen; Lindsay had an appointment, so I Ubered back downtown and picked up a capp from the new-ish Java Blend downtown before walking back to the hotel and drying off / warming up.

Lindsay was also out for dinner, so I just wandered downstairs to Drift for dinner at the bar.

  • starter
    • Atlantic salmon tartare w/ charred lemon, dill, red onion, capers, brown bread crackers
      • Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis
  • main
    • roasted braised Nova Scotia lamb, split pea cassoulet, lamb bacon, mint, turnips
      • DeLoach Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • dessert
    • Famille Sichel Sauternes

After some room service breakfast this morning, we got ourselves together and checked out. Shortly after that Patrick met us and we went back to Drift for lunch. It was too gross out to explore much beyond that. Our food was good, but the service wasn’t great. It culminated in someone dropping an avocado-covered knife on Lindsay’s coat, and definitely noticing it, but just…not doing anything about it. Anyway.

The plan for tonight, after one last quick visit with Tess + Aravind, is to order some donair pizza and then try our best to sleep that off before our flight tomorrow.

And it was thus, that we ate our way through the Maritimes.

Norovirus

About two hours after writing my last blog post I came down with the most violent stomach bug I’d ever encountered. No doubt I got it from my mom, who’d suffered through a 24-hour onslaught while we were at the farm. Right around the time I barfed my guts out, brother #2 texted to say my niece was sick; a few hours later brother #1 relayed that he was also laid low. Best guess is that it’s Norovirus.

So I spent a pretty good chunk of Christmas Eve and Christmas Day isolating in a basement bedroom, watching Die Hard and Lord Of The Rings. Thankfully, there were cute animals there to keep my spirits up (Lindsay’s mom’s cat is pretty sleep-disruptive though) and Lindsay’s taken care of me without getting herself or anyone else in her family sick. Just to be on the safe side I stayed away from her grandparents.

Last night we drove to an engagement party and then to her dad’s house in St. Margaret’s Bay for a lovely dinner. That house is also full of dogs and cats, and one in particular — a deaf, fluffy, 16-year-old cuddlebug named Maya — completely stole my heart. It was a brutal drive back on a rainy, foggy night, but we’ve arrived downtown to check into our hotel for the final phase of our trip.

Xmas 2023

After a brief visit back in Toronto, we returned to Moncton for a few days (Highlights: sausage & ricotta pizza at Tide & Boar brewing, discovering a not-really-a-hangover cure at Carrabba’s. Lowlight: the 1:55am fire alarm in the hotel on our first night.) before driving to the farm for a couple days.

My mom was violently ill for most of our visit, but other than that it was nice to hang out with family, eat too much, play crib & Uno, and relax — even if it was for less than 48 hours.

We’ve now made the drive to Bedford, where we’ll stay for a couple of days before attempting to get a couple days to ourselves.

Taste

A couple days ago we got back from Moncton. I’d been there nearly two weeks, Lindsay about half of that.

  • Weather was all over the place. From warm and rainy some days to full snowstorms to bitterly cold to heavy windstorms. That’s the Maritimes in almost-winter, I guess.
  • I mentioned the family & farm visits in my last post, but I also got to have a drink with a former vendor-side colleague who’s moved east, and an old university housemate who I hadn’t seen in (does quick math) 30 freakin’ years. We ended up in the same line of work, which was fun.
  • New places I tried this time: Gusto (not bad) and India King (very good), plus a bunch of delivery places because it was so g-d cold. I also got some intel on other good places, so the list has been refreshed for next time.

Movie week

After visits from my family last weekend (Tide & Boar with brother #2 et al on Saturday; Chalet Swiss with mom & dad on Sunday) I had the week to myself in Moncton. I was able to catch up some movies while absentmindedly working in the evenings, until Lindsay arrived Thursday.

The Killer (imdb | rotten tomatoes) wasn’t David Fincher’s best work, but it was still one of the better movies I’ve watched this year.

Lou (imdb | rotten tomatoes) was far from a great movie. It wasn’t even all that good. But manoman, can Allison Janney just carry a thing. It had no business even being as entertaining as it was.

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Stillwater (imdb | rotten tomatoes) so I was pleasantly surprised when the combination of mumbly roughneck Matt Damon + class politics in Marseilles ended up a relatively touching story about family connections.

Fair Play (imdb | rotten tomatoes) was okay, I guess, but I felt like I’d seen it already when I watched Industry.

After a 24-hour bout of sickness Friday, we drove to the farm yesterday and will be here a few more hours. It’s pretty nice to be able to come get this level of recharge with only an hours’ drive.

Betty’s East

Earlier this week we met up with M2H2 at Betty’s East, the reincarnation of a now-closed King East spot that we all loved, now in the home of what was The Burren, and Ceilidh Cottage before that. It was good to catch up for the first time in ages, and to have…you know, beer. Which I don’t have very often anymore. After a nice hazy IPA I stuck to my usual poles, a light sour and an imperial stout.

They also brought a bottle of 2018 Tzum Fèis Spring Ephemeral Scorched Earth Vineyard that had been sitting in their cellar, so we walked home with a lovely parting gift.

As I type this I’m in Moncton again, having arrived last night, and I lucked into a fridge stocked with local craft beer. I’m also about to head out and meet brother #2 and family at Tide & Board Brewing, so I daresay there’s more craft beer in my very immediate future.

Post Lily

I wanted this post to be about Leaning Post winery’s 10th anniversary party yesterday, about their delicious wines, and Ilya and Nadia and all the nice people who work there, and the amazing library wines (2013 Lowrey Pinot, 2013 Wismer Chardonnay, etc.), the yummy food, and so on. Unfortunately the drive there and back was a nightmare of traffic and we spent twice as long in the car as we did drinking wine. It’s hard to be enthusiastic about these events that are ostensibly under an hour away when you know your soul is going to be crushed by the Gardiner.

Still, it was fun to try that 2013 Pinot again. Pretty sure the last time I had it was eight years ago at Barque along with three other winemakers producing Pinot from the Lowrey fruit.

This morning’s activity was a little closer to home: breakfast at White Lily with Matt & Lisa on a crisp, sunny fall day. Makes me think this whole car thing is a scam.

Return to Grey Gardens

Six years after my first (somewhat underwhelming) visit, I had dinner at Grey Gardens with a work friend. Much better this time ’round, I must say.

  • Food
    • side stripe shrimp ~ tomato xo, scapes, black olive
    • kampachi ~ cabbage, yuzu, kombu
    • smoked fish ~ chips n’ dip
    • cauliflower ~ maitake, dill, lemon
    • duck ~ turnips, sweet potato, mustard
    • bavette ~ potato, cipollini, bordelaise
  • Drinks
    • Ardoisières 2022 ‘Silice’ Savoie / Bourbon Old Fashioned to start
    • bottle of Chateau Phelan Ségur 2014 Saint-Estèphe with most of the food
    • glasses of Bodegas Toro Albala 1955 Don PX Convento Seleccion for dessert

Apart from how delicious virtually everything was, the other remarkable thing was the guest at the table next (but perpendicular) to ours who kept throwing her body backwards in fits of laughter and very nearly ending up in our food.

I continue to not get Kensington Market though. Never have. Probably never will.

Chewy pulpo

On Saturday we went to Ardo, my first time back in quite a while…though Lindsay’s been there more recently so she was psyched. I accidentally booked bar seats instead of a table so we were pretty cramped at first, but partway through the night things emptied out.

Here’s what we ate:

  • Cocktails
    • Negroni
    • La Notte (Bourbon, Averna, Grand Marnier, lemon)
  • Appetizer & Pasta
    • grilled octopus, marinated artichoke, celery leaf
    • house made gnocchi, Italian porcini & local mushrooms, heirloom carrots, cream, Parmigiano cheese, fresh green onion
    • glasses of Etna Bianco & Pecorino
  • Main
    • dry aged ribeye steak for two, herb butter
    • sautéed rapini, fresh chilli, sweet garlic
    • bottle of 2018 Gulfi Baronj Nero D’Avola

The octopus was suuuuuuuuuper-rubbery, but the pasta was pretty good and the steak was excellent.

Detroit + donair: a fusion I didn’t know I needed

Once again I was back in Moncton this past week. Of note:

  • I sat next to someone I used to work with on the flight there, and another ex-colleague on the flight back. Last time I saw a former member of a past board of directors. I didn’t expect Moncton flights to be this kind of reunion hub.
  • Once I arrived I set out for my usual dinner plan: buy two bottles of wine at the Experience store, and get a baseball steak at The Keg. On the walk there I was a murmuration of Starlings just outside the hotel — I didn’t get video, but someone else did.
  • New places I tried this time: Cinta Ria (very tasty Malaysian), Taj Mahal (very good, even if I forgot to order rice), and the Tide & Boar brewpub, where I drank some very good beer and ate an extremely delicious (if far too big) Detroit-style donair pizza.
  • No family visits this time — it was a bit last-minute, and I was pretty heads-down whilst there — but there’ll be plenty more chances.

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